Two Intriguing Cool-Climate White Blends for under $25

Many winemakers express that their ultimate achievement is to create an outstanding single varietal wine that coaxes the best of the aromas, flavors, structure and balance from the grapes.  And one cannot argue with this winemaker goal when enjoys a perfect Chardonnay, Viognier (Condrieu) Pinot Noir, Riesling, etc.  But blends clearly have their place.  Nearly every world class Bordeaux red is a blend, as are many other highly valued reds that go further than adding 5% , 12%, 15% of other varietals to a dominant varietal..  While white wine blends have fewer stellar examples beyond many outstanding Rhone blends, in recent years more and more winemakers in America are exploring unique wine characteritics by creating interesting blends.  Two outstanding cool-climate white blends are from the left coast the Sokol Blosser Evolution and from the right coast the Channing Daughters Sylvanus

Sokol Blosser

Evolution NV

Willamette Valley, Oregon

$15

In 1998 there were very few white blends on the market when Sokol Blosser Winery of Dundee, Oregon introduced Evolution.  New winemaker Russ Rosner, now husband of second generation Allison Sokol Blosser, when challenged quickly determined that there were not a whole lot choices for a really great white blend. Then, as stated on the Evolution bottle through a stroke of “luck and/or great intention”, nine varietals from multiple states; Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat Canelli, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Semillon, Pinot Blanc, Sylvander, and Chardonnay, a wild mix of French, Italian and German grape varietals when combined together in certain portions produced an incredible complex wine. Rosner says, "In over twenty years of winemaking this is by far the hardest wine I've had to make. It's like mixing nine different colors of paint and trying to end up with a rainbow instead of a muddy brown."

The color is yellow, likely indicative of skin contact fermentation. The complex aromas are of apricot, apple, white garden flowers and tropical fruits. This is a very flavorful blend; it has aspects that remind me of a Riesling, slightly sweet but then there are the exotic other flavors and dome light acidity. So many flavors: apples, pears, citrus, tropical fruit, but all the flavors are balanced. The acidity shows up on the clean finish, just enough there to let this wine stand up to spicy food. The alcohol content is 12%.

Update Version 1.1


Drink Cool-Climate Wines

The purpose of Drink Cool-Climate Wines is to provide information, opinions and reviews of wines that are primarily from cool-climate wine growing regions.

Those of us that enjoy wine, be it as an amateur or a professional recognize that wine profiles, taste preference and styles are continually evolving.  When I first began drinking wines in the late 1960’s early 1970s, the only wines in America for college age drinkers were jug wines called chablis and heart burgundy, sweet wines such as Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill and occasionally an inexpensive French “vin de table”.  When I traveled to Europe in the early 1970’s the wine cultures of France, Germany and Italy were a great awakening of the wonderful pleasure of wine paired with food offered. Later when I started to travel on business to San Francisco in the mid-1970’s and began exploring the Napa and Sonoma Valleys I was intoxicated by the lush chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons. These wines were much fuller than the red and white wines I was frequently drinking from Burgundy and Bordeaux.  Moving to California in the early 1980’s and living there for nearly twenty years I saw California wines as the benchmark and as I travelled, toured and tasted the wines throughout Europe I found I tasted wines that were more austere, but also more defined by regions and vintages than those of much of California. In the 2000+ period I was fortunate to travel not only to more places in Europe, but also to South Africa, Argentina, Uruguay, and Australia as well as throughout the wine regions of North America. My palate was evolving.  By 2006 I was more interested in leaner merlots, cabernet francs, chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs.

While working as the Executive Director of the Long Island Merlot Alliance (now called Merliance) which co-hosted the second cool-climate conference held in Long Island in 2008, I was impressed by the depth and quality of cool-climate wines produced in the United States, France, Germany, Italy and Spain.  My personal taste profile definitely changed, as it was happening throughout America and elsewhere.  Full extracted fruit flavor reds and over oaked fruited whites had their day and their appeal was rapidly diminishing.  In their place were lighter, more acid balanced wines, leaner reds and whites produced primarily in cooler climate wine regions.

By touring, by tasting, and by talking with winemakers, proprietors, sommeliers, writers and amateurs over the past few years, I have explored in depth on where the wines for people who enjoy food and wines are going in the near future.  While there are many opinions, a large number see the upcoming decade as being dominated by cool-climate wines, as well as wines made to match the flavor profiles of cool-climate wines, even if they are grown and produced in warmer climates.

Cool-Climate Wines we love are Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from Oregon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma Coast, Russian River and Sta. Rita Hills, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from Long Island, Riesling from the Finger Lakes, Albarino from Spain, Riesling and Pinot Blanc from Alsace and Germany, Sancerre and Muscadet from France, Chenin Blanc from South Africa, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, etc.  But we also love lean rosé wines be they from Provence or Long Island.

Along with my wife, Martina Gams, my partner in wine and food we hope you find our original posts, our reviews, our opinions and our reposts of interesting pieces to be interesting, stimulating and perhaps occasionally controversial.

Salut

Len Dest

postscript - I will be reviewing an commenting on New York State wines on the New York Cork Report (www.newyorkcorkreport.com)

Merry Edward Winery

2011 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc

I recently visited the Merry Edwards Winery in Sebatopol, in Sonoma. Merry Edwards, one of California’s first woman winemakers, began her career in 1974 and was the winemaker at many top California wineries. Merry has also consulted for numerous wineries, large and small, in California and Oregon. In 1997, Merry founded Merry Edwards Winery, with a focus on producing wines with a sense of place from Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast, and also manages five estate vineyards. A state-of-the-art winery facility was opened in 2008 were tastings are hosted to educate visitors about Merry Edwards wines and site-specific viticulture.  While the main focus is on Pinot Noir with two regional blends and six vineyard designates, in 2001 a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc blend was added to the portfolio.

2011 was a challenging year for Sauvignon Blanc across all of Sonoma County due to a very cool growing season.  Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc yields were was down by about 20%. The 2011 vintage contains more than 50% fruit from vines 25 to 35 years old. Sauvignon Musqué or Savagnin Musqué fruit as it is known in Bordeaux, makes up about 20% of the blend.

The aroma is bursting with tropical fruits, guava fig, and ripe pear. This solid fruit core is wrapped in a mantle of subtle, creamy oak, with just a touch of minerality. The flavors of pink grapefruit are clean, crisp and filled with mouthwatering acidity with a smooth finish. The wine is perfect with seafood and light pasta dishes.

Fritz Estate - Dry Creek Valley

Fritz Estate - Dry Creek Valley

During a recent wine trip to Sonoma I visited the Fritz Winery in Cloverdale in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma.  The winery has been making wine in for over 30 years. In addition to a number of Dry Creek designated wines they also source grapes from vineyard sites in the cooler Russian River Valley.

Fritz Estate 2009 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel  

Quick Overview

The 2009 Estate Zinfandel is made from 30 year old estate vines grown on a 5 acre site on the valley floor that produces wines that are rich in color and flavor. In this garnet hued wine, the aromas are of blackberry, black and red cherry, wild berry, and earth tones. The body is well structured with a balanced feel and elegant tannins. Flavors are of blackberry, and black and red cherry.  This Zin stands up to grilled steaks or burgers and provides a wonderful flavor profile.

Fritz Estate 2011 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc

The 2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc is the color is light straw. The aromas are filled with passion fruit, white peach, and citrus blossoms as well as tropical fruits. The taste is centered on bright refreshing acidity, with flavors of white grapefruit, guava and lemon which fill the mouth with a light mineral finish. Perfect to pair with seafood and white poultry meats. 

Acacia 2009 - Pinot Noir

Acacia 2009 Pinot Noir

Napa Valley, Carneros

I had not been back to Acacia in years, so when Martina and I were in the Napa and Sonoma wine country earlier this year we stopped in for a tasting. Acacia debuted in 1979 and quickly distinguished itself as one of the first California wineries to offer vineyard-designate Pinot Noir.  The goal has been to achieve a balance  that was both complex and delicate in Pinot Noir and that, at the time, existed only in French wines.

Acacia has for more than 30 years seen the  potential of the cool-climate Carneros, which overlooks San Pablo Bay, long before the climate of this AVA was recognized as ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Carneros is in the southernmost part of the Napa Valley and experiences the coolest temperatures in the valley. Morning fog and mist are combined with fierce and persistent afternoon winds.

The 2009 Carneros Pinot Noir wine was made from a number of estate and contracted vineyards. A result of gentle winemaking methods, the 2009 Acacia Pinot Noir is another elegant wine with aromas of raspberry, cherry, and herbs. The strawberry, and spice flavors in the mouth are similar to the nose. The body is smooth with a pleasing finish.

King Estate - 2010 Oregon Pinot Gris

King Estate
2010 Oregon Pinot Gris

King Estate was founded in 1991 by the King family, and is located southwest of Eugene, Oregon.  King Estate is committed to producing Oregon wines of exceptional quality using organic and sustainable farming methods.  The beautiful estate which I visited a few weeks ago consists of 1,033 acres is certified organic and includes 470 acres of organic vineyards, as well as 30 acres of fruits, vegetables, and flowers.

The 2010 Oregon Pinot Gris is a blend of grapes from multiple vineyards. The wine is golden, pale yellow in color.  The aromas are of apricot, nectarine, lime, vanilla, papaya, mango, and guava. Flavors are of white peaches, and grapefruit, and honeydew melon, with a vibrant, bright, balanced acidity. 

Domaine Guindon - 2011 Muscadet

Domaine Guindon

2011 Muscadet

Coteaux de la Loire Sur Lie Cuvee Tradition,

Loire, France

Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire is one of the four Muscadet appellations which dominate wine production in the Loire Valley Pays Nantais district, on France’s central western coast.

This light to medium bodied Muscadet made from the Melon de Bourgone varietal had aromas and flavors of hard fruits. This thirst-quenching white provides intense minerality, a slightly salty finish and crisp, clean green apple fruit. This wine is a perfect match for oysters on the half shell and simply broiled or sautéed fish.

Pierre Rovani, of  The Wine Advocate rated this wine 90 points and said “This is unquestionably one of the finest Muscadets I've tasted! Its lovely, rich aromatics reveal pears, smoky minerals, and spice. Light to medium bodied, it has mouth-coating richness, fabulous balance. As well as loads of sea salt-covered nut, candied lemon/lime, and white fruit flavors. In addition, this bone-dry wine reveals a tangy, saliva-inducing element that simply cries out for food. Its finish is flavorful and admirably long. What a muscadet! “

Alois Lageder - 2011 Pinot Bianco

Alois Lageder 2011 Pinot Bianco

Alois Lageder was founded in 1823 by Johann Lageder and is still owned and managed by family members. The wines of the Alois Lageder are all grown using sustainable methods of production. They are made partly from grapes that are grown in vineyards using biodynamical techniques, and also from grapes that are purchased from long-term contracted trusted local growers. All the vineyards are 10 – 35 years old, in the Dolomite foothills region in the Alto Adige appellation (Salorno, Magrè, Cortaccia and Pochi) and the most northern part of Trentino (Roverè della Luna)at 950 to 1,650 feet elevations, situated on the cooler west-facing slopes. Soils are sandy, gravelly and with a high content of limestone. The 2011 vintage was harvested in early September 2011, bottled in February 2012 and released in March 2012.

Using the Pinot Blanc varietal the wine has a straw yellow color. The aromas are of apples and peaches.  The flavors are elegant, fruity, with a light to medium body with a clean finish. When properly cellared this wine may be kept for 4 to 5 years. The wine goes very well with green salads, green vegetables, and all kind of seafood dishes.

Domain Pierre Luneau-Papin 
Le L d'Or
2007 Muscadet 

Muscadet which had basically disappeared from the wine lists of America for the last 15 years has made a dramatic return as sommeliers and wine lovers have rediscovered it. I recall first having a Muscadet with seafood in the Loire Valley back in the late 1970’s. I was amazed then and remain convinced it is a perfect wine to pair with the fruits of the sea. 

All Muscadet are made with the Melon de Bourgogne or Melon a varietal derived from the Pinot Blanc grown primarily in the Western Loire Valley region of France around Nantes. Melon is one of the great Cool-Climate varietals and is distinguished by its great resistance to frost. The grape is so associated with its appellation that the grape itself is often known as Muscadet. A little-known fact about Muscadets is that they are a white wine that can improve with aging.

While the Muscadet of the past was very much a “vin de table,” today Muscadet producers are giving it as much attention and care as more highly regarded regions and varietals. Pierre and Monique Luneau started more than 30 years ago to develop a vineyard and winery to take full advantage of the Melon and produce fine Muscadets. Their son Pierre-Marie joined the family wine business in 2005, and he is the 8th generation in this family of vignerons.

The eight different wines of Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin respect both their different terroirs and each vintage. Reflecting that Muscadets age well the excellent cuvée 'L'd'Or', 45 year old vines planted on granite using organic growing techniques has shown beautifully in verticals from as far back as 1976. L’d’Or wine is enriched and matured for 9 to 11 months on its lees up to bottling. Once fermentation has finished, the lees are regularly stirred, so that the lees remain in suspension.

The 2007 vintage we had at Mas (farmhouse) in the West Village of New York was exceptional and paired perfectly with our first and second seafood courses, The straw colored wine is lush and medium body with aromas of citrus and summer meadow flowers. The flavor was crisp and at the same time full with generous acidity

Erath

2009 Pinot Gris

Willamette Valley Oregon

While Oregon is best known for world class Pinot Noir, and more recently for excellent Riesling, the Pinot Gris varietal that was planted along with Pinot Noir has not received the acclaim it is justly due.

In 1969 Dick Erath was one of the first to recognize the cool-climate grape growing potential of Oregon's Willamette Valley. A firm believer that great wines are grown not made, he actively pursued vineyard development in Dundee's red hills. Now some forty years later Erath farms 115 acres, supplying about 70% of the winery's grapes for each vintage. The remainder comes from other vineyards in the Willamette and Umpqua Valleys. Owned since 2006 by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Erath today produces moderately priced Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris wines. During a recent visit I found the winery has maintained it understated strength.

The 2009 Erath Pinot Gris has a mild bouquet, leading into appealing ripe hard fruit (apple and pear) flavors. Crisp and spicy, with good full body and a lingering flavor of dry savory spices, is balanced with just the right amount of acid.. 

Drink Cool-Climate Wines

The purpose of Drink Cool-Climate Wines is to provide information, opinions and reviews of wines that are primarily from cool-climate wine growing regions.

Those of us that enjoy wine, be it as an amateur or a professional recognize that wine profiles, taste preference and styles are continually evolving.  When I first began drinking wines in the late 1960’s early 1970s, the only wines in America for college age drinkers were jug wines called chablis and heart burgundy, sweet wines such as Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill and occasionally an inexpensive French “vin de table”.  When I traveled to Europe in the early 1970’s the wine cultures of France, Germany and Italy were a great awakening of the wonderful pleasure of wine paired with food offered. Later when I started to travel on business to San Francisco in the mid-1970’s and began exploring the Napa and Sonoma Valleys I was intoxicated by the lush chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons. These wines were much fuller than the red and white wines I now frequently drank from Burgundy and Bordeaux.  Moving to California in the early 1980’s and living there for nearly twenty years I saw California wines as the benchmark and as I travelled, toured and tasted the wines throughout Europe I found I tasted wines that were more austere, but also more defined by regions and vintages than those of much of California. In the 2000+ period I was fortunate to travel not only to more places in Europe, but also to South Africa, Argentina, Uruguay, and Australia as well as throughout the wine regions of North America. My palate was evolving.  By 2006 I was more interested in leaner merlots, cabernet francs, chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs.

While working as the Executive Director of the Long Island Merlot Alliance (now called Merliance) which co-hosted the second cool-climate conference held in Long Island in 2008, I was impressed by the depth and quality of cool-climate wines produced in the United States, France, Germany, Italy and Spain.  My personal taste profile definitely changed, as it was happening throughout America and elsewhere.  Full extracted fruit flavor reds and over oaked fruited whites had their day and their appeal was rapidly diminishing.  In their place were lighter, more acid balanced wines, leaner reds and whites produced primarily in cooler climate wine regions.

By touring, by tasting, and by talking with winemakers, proprietors, sommeliers, writers and amateurs over the past few years, I have explored in depth on where the wines for people who enjoy food and wines are going in the near future.  While there are many opinions, a large number see the upcoming decade as being dominated by cool-climate wines, as well as wines made to match the flavor profiles of cool-climate wines, even if they are grown and produced in warmer climates.

Cool-Climate Wines we love are Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from Oregon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma and Sta. Rita Hills, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from Long Island, Riesling from the Finger Lakes, Albarino from Spain, Riesling and Pinot Blanc from Alsace and Germany, Sancerre and Muscadet from France, Chenin Blanc from South Africa, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, etc.  But we also love lean rosé wines be they from Provence or Long Island.

Along with my wife, Martina Gams, my partner in wine and food we hope you find our original posts, our reviews, our opinions and our reposts of interesting pieces to be interesting, stimulating and perhaps occasionally controversial.

Salut

Len Dest