Sunday, September 9, 2012



Two Intriguing Cool-Climate White Blends for under $25

Many winemakers express that their ultimate achievement is to create an outstanding single varietal wine that coaxes the best of the aromas, flavors, structure and balance from the grapes.  And one cannot argue with this winemaker goal when enjoys a perfect Chardonnay, Viognier (Condrieu) Pinot Noir, Riesling, etc.  But blends clearly have their place.  Nearly every world class Bordeaux red is a blend, as are many other highly valued reds that go further than adding 5% , 12%, 15% of other varietals to a dominant varietal..  While white wine blends have fewer stellar examples beyond many outstanding Rhone blends, in recent years more and more winemakers in America are exploring unique wine characteritics by creating interesting blends.  Two outstanding cool-climate white blends are from the left coast the Sokol Blosser Evolution and from the right coast the Channing Daughters Sylvanus

Sokol Blosser
Evolution NV
Willamette Valley, Oregon
$15

In 1998 there were very few white blends on the market when Sokol Blosser Winery of Dundee, Oregon introduced Evolution.  New winemaker Russ Rosner, now husband of second generation Allison Sokol Blosser, when challenged quickly determined that there were not a whole lot choices for a really great white blend. Then, as stated on the Evolution bottle through a stroke of “luck and/or great intention”, nine varietals from multiple states; Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat Canelli, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Semillon, Pinot Blanc, Sylvander, and Chardonnay, a wild mix of French, Italian and German grape varietals when combined together in certain portions produced an incredible complex wine. Rosner says, "In over twenty years of winemaking this is by far the hardest wine I've had to make. It's like mixing nine different colors of paint and trying to end up with a rainbow instead of a muddy brown."
The color is yellow, likely indicative of skin contact fermentation. The complex aromas are of apricot, apple, white garden flowers and tropical fruits. This is a very flavorful blend; it has aspects that remind me of a Riesling, slightly sweet but then there are the exotic other flavors and dome light acidity. So many flavors: apples, pears, citrus, tropical fruit, but all the flavors are balanced. The acidity shows up on the clean finish, just enough there to let this wine stand up to spicy food. The alcohol content is 12%.

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